Silver work of the Southwestern Indian
[Navajo] [Zuni] [Hopi]

Because of its popularity and familiarity Indian silver work is usually thought of as an ancient craft. Actually, it is one of the most recent to be adopted by tribes in the Southwest. The art of silversmithing by the Southwestern Indian has gone through (and continues to do so) many changes in both technique and style.

The Indians used coins as one of their sources of silver until 1890, when such use was prohibited by the United States. They then used Mexican pesos to 1930 when Mexico forbade the export of its coin. The use of sterling silver in slug and sheet form increased radically as a result and was purchased from refineries by traders specifically to sell to the Indians.

Turquoise was only sparsely used until the turn of the century, when it became more available. While turquoise is, to the Indians, the most highly prized stone, they also use coral, jet, onyx, mother-of-pearl, mussel, clam, and abalone shells.

The wearing of turquoise and silver jewellery has, from the first, been a sign of wealth and prestige in Indian society. By 1900, Indian jewellery began to be popular among non-Indians, and continues to be so today.

The Navajo were the first of the Southwestern Indians to learn silversmithing, from the Mexicans in the late 1850s. At first the silver was wrought (hammered into shape while hot), and sometimes a file was used to cut simple patterns in the silver.

In 1875 they began making sand cast jewellery using moulds made of fine grained pumice or sandstone with a pattern carved into it. Silver was then melted and poured into the mould and, after it had cooled, was taken out, filed, bent into shape, and polished.

In 1890, they began making stamped patterns in the silver jewellery with iron dies or punches either acquired, or copied, from Mexican leather craftsmen.
Shortly before 1900, the Navajo began putting turquoise on some of their jewellery. They would select the piece of turquoise to use and painstakingly craft a bezel or setting to fit the stone.

As more modern tools and sheet silver became available, they became increasingly skillful and more prolific in the art. Using fine jewellery saws they were now able to cut out slender pieces and fashion leaves, animals and other designs.

With greater skill and further improved methods, the Navajo silversmiths now combine their new skills with the traditions of the old ways, usually distinguishable by their use of highly worked silver and native design.

The Zuni learned silversmithing from the Navajo in the 1870s. Their jewellery was similar in style to that of the Navajo until 1890, when they developed their own new styles similar to what they are today.

Silver became the background, or base, and each piece had elaborately designed stone work. The Zuni make the stones fit a previously prepared setting. This is done in three styles: inlay, petit point, and cluster.

Zuni inlay is made in two styles. One is a mosaic-like design that is made by cutting small pieces of various stones and/or shells to form abstract patterns or designs portraying animals and Indian figures (Sun Shield, Knifeway, Rainbow Guardian, ceremonial dancers) with the complete pattern or design is set into a bezel.

The second inlay style is made by setting a single stone into each compartment of a silver divided design. Zuni inlay designs sometimes combines both of these styles in a single piece. Inlay may have either a flat or raised surface. The flat surface is obtained by cutting the stones, inlaying then into the piece and then grinding it flat. A raised surface is produced when the stones are domed or carved, set into the piece and polished.

Petit point jewellery consists of tiny stones, each set in its own bezel. These bezels are set in intricate lace patterns. Needlepoint is a specific type of petit point consisting of tiny elongated stones that come to a point on both ends.

In cluster work, as in petit point work, each stone is set in a separate bezel and usually consists of somewhat larger centre stones, surrounded by smaller stones in a symmetrical design.

There is also a selection of Traditional Beaded Jewellery crafted by Indians of the South Dakota Sioux and/or New Mexico and Arizona Navajo Tribes. Available are:

Glass seed-beads, bone pipe-beads, and horn pipe-beads

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Page last updated - 120603